![]() ![]() That would mean that you need to lift it by 10-5, in other words, by 5 levels. So let's say your regrowth is level 5 and you are trying to take that hair blonde. ![]() Now subtract the two numbers to figure out the level lift required. If you are going for any warm vibrant fashion color, red or pink, for example, you will need to take the hair to level 7 minimum.Īnd if you are going for any cold fashion color, blue, grey or violet, for example, you will need to take the hair to level 9 minimum. If you are going for a dark or medium blonde color, that means you are going for a level 6-8. If, for example you are going for a true blonde color, the answer would be either 9 or 10. Next, figure out what level you are aiming for. If you see only yellow, you are at level 8 or lighter. If there is a lot of yellow/orange, you are somewhere between level 6 and level 7. So for example if there is orange in your hair, you are at level 5 Light Brown. If you have lengths which have been previously bleached or colored, you can use the right side instead. Use the left side of the chart below to figure out what level your natural hair color (virgin hair) is on a scale of 1-10. Your aim is to give a number to your current hair color level. So How do I know which developer strength I should use? First, refer to the hair color chart below to figure out where your client's hair is currently. We don't recommend you do this when using Ugly Duckling bleaches, as they have been formulated to lift very well with 20 and 30 Vol developer strength only. Sometimes stylists want to use this with hair bleach in order to get their clients very very blonde - for example, to lift it by 7 or 8 levels. It has extremely strong lifting power, but because it opens up the hair cuticle so much, it can damage the hair cuticle unnecessarily. Use thus on the lengths only and never on the scalp. For example when hair has been colored darker and is very difficult to remove. You should use this when faced with very stubborn hair situations. It is the one to use when you are using high lift color or bleach on the lengths and you are going for lifts of 3 levels and more. Hair here processes extremely fast and you should not use a stronger developer strength here. You should also use 20 Vol when doing bleach applications near the root area or scalp. We also recommend that you use this for blonde toning applications as well as for grey hair coverage. ![]() Ugly Duckling recommends that you use this strength for most permanent color applications involving 1-3 levels lift. It will lift the hair by one or two levels, allowing color or bleach to penetrate in and do its work. It is the developer strength the most widely used by colorists in salons. This contains 3% hydrogen peroxide and is used for no-lift hair color, tone-on-tone and tone-down applications. What are the commonly used developer strengths? 10 Volume Developer The higher the "Vol", the more you open up the hair cuticle and the more lift you get. The developer strength refers to the oxidizing potential of the developer, or how much hydrogen peroxide it contains. Hair developer is typically formulated in different strengths, from 5 Vol and 7 Vol all the way to 40 Vol. It helps the color or bleach open up the outer layer of the hair (the cuticle, in other words) and allows the mix to penetrate the hair shaft. Hair Developer is essentially hydrogen peroxide formulated inside a cream base in order to make it more cosmetic and gentle for the hair and the scalp.ĭeveloper activates the hair color and bleach. The recommended mix is 1 part high lift color to 2 parts developer. The rules for developer choice with Ugly Duckling high lift colors The recommended mix for our bleaches is 1 part bleach to 2 parts color. It is not required, as our bleaches lift very fast. Use 30 Vol for any lift higher than 3 levels lift.ĭo not use 40 Vol with Ugly Duckling bleaches. Use 20 Vol for up to 3 levels lift and for the regrowth area (hair processes faster there because of the heat from the scalp) The rules for developer choice with Ugly Duckling bleaches The mix for Ugly Duckling cream toners is 1 part color to 2 parts developer. The mix with Blondify toners is 1 part color to 1 part developer. The mix for Ugly Duckling cream color is 1 part color to 1 part developer. Use 20 Vol for 1-2 levels lift, for toning blonde hair and for grey hair coverage. Use 10 Vol for level on level-on-level coloring and going darker. Bullet-Point Summary - which developer to use & how much The rules for developer choice with Ugly Duckling colors & toners ![]()
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